If the time has come for you to replace your worn out old road bike tyres, you may be wondering what your best options are. There are many options you could choose from, and if you’re struggling to work out what is right for you then read on, as we’ll be helping to show you how to choose the right tyres for your bike.
Tyres can be an absolute minefield, and knowing how to choose the right tyres for your road bike is a skill, we have collated everything you need to know about tyres so you can go from zero to expert in no time.
What type of tyre should i use?
Tube-Type Tyres
A standard non-tubeless ready road bike tyre features a bead around the edge that hooks into the rim of the wheel. An inner tube sits independently within the tyre to hold air and keep the right pressure in the tyre. To repair a tubed tyre puncture you would generally either patch or replace the inner tube. You may also hear these referred to as “Clincher” tyres, although tubeless ready tyres can also be run with a tube in this way.
Tubeless Tyres
Tubeless-ready tyres are designed to be used without an inner tube. They must be used with tubeless-ready rims, as together they will create an airtight seal that enables the tyre to hold air without using a tube. Sealant will also be required to help seal any small punctures. Generally, running tubeless will reduce the likelihood of a flat, if a larger tear in the tyre occurs, it can be a bit more of a process to repair. More on that later.
Tubular Tyres
Tubular tyres were another common option in years gone by. They are constructed with the tyre casing sewn around the inner tube. These do not have beads and are glued onto specifically designed rims, which can make them harder to install and repair. However most brands have moved away from this now.
How do I choose the right tyre width for my bike?
Road bike tyre width is a hot topic, with many cyclists moving away from the skinner side and opting for a wider tyre for better comfort.
You will often see tyre sizes described like this: 700x28c for example. The 700 is your wheel size, and the “c” refers to the height and width of the tyre in mm.This measurement however is what is considered a “specified width” meaning based on a standardised measurement system the tyre will measure 28mm, however modern wheels often have varying internal diameters dependant on the brand and wheel model. This skews these results. For example, a 28mm tyre on a 25mm internal will actually measure closer to 30mm.
Bicycle tyres come in many widths, but on road bikes you’ll generally find anywhere from 23mm to 32mm. Bike tyres are trending towards wider widths like 28-32mm in recent years, with 23-25mm being phased out by brands.
Narrower tyres used to be believed to be the fastest, however, research into rim aerodynamics and rolling resistance has shifted the industry towards wider tyres as they offer lower rolling resistance, and the aerodynamics penalty of wider tyres can be minimised by making the carbon rims width wider.
Racing Tyres
In the Pro Peloton, you will mostly see riders opting for 28-30mm with a few riders opting for up to 32mm tyres for races such as Paris-Roubaix, to give extra comfort over the rough cobbles of northern of France.
Endurance Tyres
For endurance bikes, where weight is less of a priority but comfort is paramount, you’ll often find bikes equipped with tyres up to 32mm in width. And some riders opting for 35mm in width on bikes with larger tyre clearance like the Giant Defy. The wider profile provides a significant improvement in comfort, especially when travelling over rough ground or for long periods of time, thanks in part to being able to run lower pressures that soak up bumps in the road.
Gravel Tyres
Gravel bikes designed for off-road use can accommodate even wider tyres, with some models capable of handling up to full-size MTB tyres. This allows you to run even lower pressures and therefore provides more comfort over bumpy/rough ground. You will find that MTB tyres are pretty common place in the world of professional gravel racing, like Unbound, and the Lifetime Grand Prix.
How To Choose The Right Width Tyres For Your Bike?:
Riding Conditions:
If you are riding over rough roads or considering some off-road routes, then wider tyres will provide more comfort and confidence as you can run lower pressures.
Rim Compatibility:
Not every rim can take every type of tyre. Check the info for your specific rims to see if they can take the tyre size you’re planning on using.
Hookless rims can only hold specific Hookless-compatible tyres. This is because these tyres are manufactured to much finer tolerances than standard tyres, so they can securely sit on the rim without the need for a bead hook. Nowadays, most tyres are hookless compatible, but it is always worth checking, just in case.
Frame/Fork Clearance:
As above, not every frame/fork can accommodate every size of tyre. If you put too wide a tyre on an incompatible frame or fork you will encounter rubbing/clearance issues which are likely to damage your frame and make your ride far less enjoyable. It is also worth considering that the tyre doesn’t necessarily measure what the manufacturer specifies on the box. Wider internal diameter wheels will often measure wider than specified. For example, a 23mm internal 28mm tyre will likely measure around 29-30mm. You should also consider that there needs to be enough clearance to accommodate wheel flex. Particularly if you are running traditional steel spokes, as they are subject to more lateral flex than wheels with carbon spokes. Check the spec of your bike if available, or pop into your local bike shop, who can help you work out compatibility.
Aerodynamics & Crosswinds:
If all-out speed is your goal, choosing a tyre width that matches the external width is the most optimal for aerodynamics as well as crosswind performance. The most optimal is known as the “Rule Of 105” where your rims external width should be 105% of your tyres measured width (not specified width). For Example; The Cadex 50 Ultra Wheels have an internal width of 22.7mm and an external width of 30mm. So the most optimal tyre width is 28mm, as a 28mm on that internal width will actually measure around 28.5-29mm, and so if 30mm is 105% then the tyre must be around 28.5mm. You can read more about Rims and wheels in our Ultimate Road Wheels Buyers Guide
Fast and Light vs. Heavy Duty Road Bike Tyres?
All road bikes run slick tyres. Theres 2 schools of thought around grip for road bike tyres. Continental & Pirelli use an etching in the edge of the tyre to give grip in the corners. These are usually roughly triangular shape to give the effect of increasing and decreasing grip. When the wheel spins at high speed, the edge grip bites into the ground to ensure the wheel is always grounded when at the limit. Vittoria and Michelin, on the other hand, use a variation of rubber compounds, using a softer compound on the edge to do the same thing, the grip is slightly more linear. When the wheel is spinning at over 200RPM, the difference between these 2 methods is indistinguishable.
If you’re on a gravel bike, you are likely to find a more aggressive tread pattern that may include small knobs on the tyre that allow the bike to dig into the ground when riding along gravel/dirt tracks. This provides more off-road grip, but means the bike will roll slower on the road. A gravel bike can generally run anything from road slicks, up to almost mountain bike-width tyres, depending on the model and wheel size you select. Having tread on the tyre does not mean that the tyre has added grip on the road, however. As the tyre sits on the tread, the tread actually reduces the contact patch with the road and can make the tyre more slippery particularly in the wet.
The manufacturer of road bike tyres is always going to be focused on finding the right balance between weight, rolling resistance and puncture protection.
A fast and light tyre will have thinner tread rubber and carcass. The downside of this is that they can be slightly more puncture-prone and wear out more quickly.
Conversely, a heavier-duty tyre will have thicker tread rubber and carcass. While a bit slower, these tyres are less likely to puncture and can last longer.
Which way you should swing towards will depend on what you’re hoping to achieve with your road cycling. If you’re looking for spee,d then opting for a fast and light tyre is for you. If the idea of fixing a roadside puncture makes you cringe, then opt for something more heavy-duty for those daily rides.
With the introduction of tubeless tyres, quite often riders are able to run faster and lighter tyres, with a catastrophic puncture being substantially less likely. Sealant will often cover the deficit left when there is less puncture protection.
What pressures should I be running?
Like with most things, the answer depends on a few factors such as rider weight, wheels, road conditions, length of ride etc.
Running lower pressures in your road bike tyres will offer a more comfortable ride and offer more grip on the road, but going too low can make your tyres more prone to punctures. If you’re riding particularly rough roads, or for a long time you may opt to decrease your pressures slightly to provide more comfort.
Don’t forget, the heavier you are, the higher the pressures you’ll need to run as a baseline as an underinflated tyre can burp air from a tubeless set-up or “snakebite” a tube.
Higher pressures, however, don’t automatically mean more speed. In-fact, overinflate a tyre and you’re likely to ride slower as there’s nothing soaking up the bumps on real-world roads!
Another thing to remember is that your specific tyre will have a maximum pressure (or PSI) it can take. Some tubeless rims can also have a maximum pressure rating to be aware of. A good starting point is to set your pressure somewhere between the minimum and maximum values shown on your tyre and adjust from there. The smaller a tyre, the more pressure it will likely need – so you’ll be looking at much higher pressures in a road bike tyre vs a mountain bike tyre!
Every rider SHOULD use a tyre pressure calculator to work out their ideal pressures.
Perfect for a super simple rough number
Ideal for those who want a dialled-in pressure for their ride.
SRAM AXS tyre pressure calculator has more variables to give you the most accurate results, including different pressures for different conditions, whereas Silca is great if you want a simplistic number to stick too. If you have Hookless wheels we recommend using SRAM AXS Calculator, because they are
Should I go tubeless on my road bike?
Tubeless is another frequently debated topic in road cycling. Running tubeless enables you to run your tyres without a tube inside. You would need to use tubeless-ready tyres and rims to ensure that no air can escape, and then the tyre is filled with sealant that will plug any small holes that appear in the tyre.
The benefits of running tubeless are:
Lower Rolling Resistance:
Inner tubes increase rolling resistance primarily through hysteretic energy loss (heat generation) caused by material deformation and friction as the tube rubs against the inner tyre casing. A tube creates an extra layer of material that must bend under load, consuming energy (typically up to 4 watts per wheel).
Weight Saving:
Potential weight saving compared to traditional black butyl tubes. However with the introduction of TPU tubes, these can reduce the weight of your bike, depending on how much sealant you use
Less punctures:
The sealant will stop air escaping from small punctures that would likely deflate a tube. Alternatively, if your tyre does start to deflate, using tubeless plugs will stop most leaking air from escaping, so you can get back on the road without having to take out your wheel on the side of the road.
Lower Pressures:
You can run lower pressures, which makes for a more comfortable ride as tubeless tyres are much less likely to pinch flat. Lower pressures also have a big affect on rolling resistance as the tyre is able to confom to the road surface better, without getting pinged around.
Some potential downsides of tubeless are:
If you do puncture on the road (because tubeless isn’t going to stop every puncture – bigger holes may not seal) it can be harder and messier to fix due to the sealant inside.
Less simple to set up than putting a tube inside the tyre and inflating.
Compatibility. You may find that your rims are not tubeless compatible.
So the answer to the question “should I go tubeless on my road bike”? Depends on whether you are happy to make the process of installing and repairing a little more involved for the benefit of less potential punctures, or if you prefer to keep things simple. Alternatively, we can help you get set up with tubeless in one of our 12 stores.
Either way, we’d recommend keeping a spare tube to hand on every ride, just in case!
To conclude:
In conclusion, the right tyre choice for you depends on what sort of riding you’ll be doing, and what your preferences are.
For the road cyclist looking for maximum speed:
Low rolling resistance tyres (N.B. lightest tyres too fragile for normal use)
28 or 30mm tyre width
Potential tubeless set up to reduce weight and rolling resistance
If tubeless is not for you consider using TPU innertubes
For the road cyclist looking for maximum comfort:
Wider tyres, 30-32mm and above
Lower pressures to suck up the bumps in the road
Tubeless set up enables further reduction in tyre pressures for extra comfort
If you would like further assistance making the right selection for you and your bike, please contact your nearest Balfe’s store or our Support Team who will be happy to help.
